Enga Province

The old washed-up dugout canoe at Papitalai's North Point

Some thousand days past in the yesteryears, a group of unlikely seafarers from Oksapmin, Yangoru, Wasara and Nuku traversed the Los Negros seas from Mokoreng point to Lombrum, braving the North winds and the restless waters that spread between the points. Who would have imagined that these "stones" could float but they did and so the story of seafarers was born.

Armed with an old battered dugout canoe that got washed up outside the beachfront that faced the male quarters at Papitalai, these Sepik men taught themselves to become seafarers. The old canoe served the purpose of ferrying these bushmen across the bay or just taking them for an aimless floating trip into the open end of the sea to catch the last rays of the sun reaching out from Kali Bay in the west. When the Sepiks first encountered her, the canoe bore the scars of a tumultuous history, battered and blistered from the relentless sea. The wild Manus weather had treated her harshly, pushing her to an unrecoverable state. To make matters worse, her previous owner had seemingly given up on her, evident in the unrepairable crack that rendered her wrecked, destroyed, and seemingly beyond all hope of restoration. Yet, as the Sepiks set their eyes on this old lady of the sea, a new chapter in her life was about to unfold.

In an unexpected twist, this fearless band of men from the Sepik's remote hinterlands breathed vitality into a weathered relic, defying convention by not having any ties to the seafaring Titan tribe or coastal heritage. Disregarding their lack of ancestral connections to the sea, they fearlessly embarked on a mission to rejuvenate the vessel and proudly adopted the mantle of seafarers. Undaunted by skepticism, the resilient inhabitants of Sepik Central dove headlong into the challenge, determined to breathe new life into the aging craft and teach themselves the ways of the sea. Amidst the daunting task, a pivotal figure emerged—a Tolai man, the spouse of a member of the teaching staff. His expertise became the cornerstone in organizing the intricate repair work, playing a pivotal role in the remarkable revival of the weather-beaten vessel.

In a tale of perseverance and ingenuity, the boys dedicated countless hours to meticulously repairing the cracks in the canoe. Armed with melted plastic and sometimes with wood glues blended with sawdust, they engaged in a trial-and-error process to effectively seal the cracks. Throughout this journey of restoration, the boys took turns paddling the canoe around the waterfront, near the male single quarters at Papitalai Secondary School.

As the canoe finally underwent its transformation, the Sepik men skillfully maneuvered it through the waters of Papitalai Bay. In the enchanting evenings, the once-fragile vessel embarked on seamless journeys, exploring the captivating waters between Mokoreng Point and the Lombrum naval base, leaving a trail of awe and admiration in its wake.

In the realm of adventurous spirits, none rivaled the enthusiasm of Youth, our faithful canine companion. Whether the canoe found itself at full capacity or we charted unknown waters, Youth was ever the daredevil, taking to the waves with a spirited swim or asserting his presence in the canoe, serenading our journey with spirited howls.

What made the whole scenario even more amusing was the blind trust these creatures bestowed upon us, despite our lack of seafaring lineage coursing through our veins. Yet, it was the canoe that became the vessel of discovery, ushering us lads on thrilling expeditions across the bay and deeper into the mysterious caves of Papitalai Bay. Not to mention its role in ensuring a bountiful catch of fish to grace our tables.

Embarking on our adventurous journeys, it was Youth, our trusty canine companion, who always added a dash of excitement. Whether gracefully swimming alongside the canoe when space ran out or boldly standing within it, howling as we paddled home, Youth brought a unique charm to our explorations. Despite lacking the seafarers' blood in our veins, these creatures placed unwavering trust in us.

The canoe became the vessel for thrilling escapades, carrying us across the bay and into the mysterious caves of Papitalai Bay. It also proved indispensable for our fishing endeavours. On my final day in Papitalai, memories flooded back as my Nuku and Wasara brothers paddled me to the airport. Playfully remarking on their seemingly ancestral paddling skills, I quipped about the possibility of them finding someone special. Little did I know, my words would ring true as the Nuku brother later tied the knot with a Manus woman, adding a sweet twist to our unforgettable adventures.

A tranquil moment by the waterfront, near the single teachers' quarters, Papsec, Manus Island

Serenity at Papitalai bayWhere tranquillity meets the sea's embrace

Pontoon, one of many WWII relics that litter the Papitalai bay