Enga Province

The journey up the Fly River was a stark contrast to the tainted waters of Alice River downstream. As our boat navigated the gentle currents upstream, the riverbanks unfolded a tableau of life and vitality. The lush greenery teemed with herons and other birds, their wings creating fleeting shadows on the vibrant canvas. Unlike the barren banks of Alice, here, evidence of life abounded.

The air was filled with the melodic calls of the avian residents, a symphony of nature untouched by the consequences of human greed. Along the banks, we encountered fishermen proudly displaying their catches, a testament to the abundance of aquatic life thriving in the pristine waters of the Fly. Children, seeking refuge from Kiunga's relentless sun, laughed and splashed in the cool, fresh water, their joy reflecting the health of the river ecosystem.

Contrastingly, the memory of Alice lingered, a sombre reminder of the environmental degradation wrought by the insatiable thirst for wealth. Murky waters, laden with sediments and chemicals, reflected a desolate landscape devoid of life. The absence of children playing and the scarcity of fish painted a grim picture of the toll exacted by corporate avarice.

As we continued upstream, the Fly River unfolded like a living tapestry. The riverbanks, fertile with sediments, provided a canvas for farmers to cultivate and nurture the land. Vast expanses of sandbanks invited thoughts of future picnics, a serene escape from the noise and heat of Kiunga town.

Further upstream, tributary rivers merged with the Fly, serving as lifelines for remote communities like Nomad. Stories of people travelling from the farthest reaches, journeying by river and continuing on foot, resonated with the age-old connection between humanity and the flowing waters.

Approaching the higher reaches, the Fly River gathered speed, a reflection of the increasing altitude towards Biangabip. Locals shared tales of the boat's journey into the mountainous Olsobip region, cautioning about the challenges posed by the powerful upstream currents. The absence of sediments in these mountainous stretches replaced the fertile sands with resilient stones, a testament to the unique characteristics of the river at different points.

The sounds of the Fly River became a constant companion as we ventured further upstream, a stark contrast to the silent glide past Kiunga town. The potential for this part of the river was evident, a potential that required vigilant protection to prevent the ravages seen downstream.

Unfortunately, the same optimism could not be extended to Alice River. The scars of massive environmental changes suggested that even when the mines eventually ceased operations, it would take centuries for the river to reclaim its lost vitality. The lessons learned from the Fly River echoed a plea for responsible stewardship, a call to ensure that the mistakes of the past were not repeated, and the precious waters of the earth remained a source of life for generations to come.